Last summer, if you asked which cocktails were dominating London bars, the drink on many people’s lips, quite literally, was the Aperol Spritz. This year the spritz is still popular, especially in Hugo form, but is it dominating or are things changing? 

Spritz

Many a Spritz shifts across the London scene; it’s perfect for a hot summer’s day, especially on a balmy rooftop location. The Hugo and other spritz variants are becoming more of a choice for those who daycap, less so for evening indulgence. 

Image: Hugo Spritz at Merchant House.

Lorenzo Gavelli, Bar Manager of Soho’s Disrepute, has seen a noticeable shift towards drinking earlier in the day, suggesting this is “perhaps both a cause and a consequence of longer, low-ABV serves becoming more and more popular”, no doubt driven by Aperol Spritz popularity. 

Lorenzo added: “Years of advocacy and new alternatives to Aperol becoming available have made the consumer increasingly aware that the spritz is its own category of drinks and not limited to Aperol or the Hugo”.

Talking to many other bartenders, it seems the Hugo is this summer’s spritz of choice, especially as brands like St Germain have seen sales double! The limoncello-based Amalfi Spritz is gaining popularity, and no-low serves from brands like Everleaf offer a lower-ABV alternative. But it’s not just about the Spritz...

Margaritas

Tequila is definitely having its moment in the sun! I recently caught up with Sly Augustin of Notting Hill’s legendary Trailer Happiness; he said they shift Hugo’s aplenty but, funnily enough for a famous rum bar, they also sell a lot of Margaritas! 

Image: Harp Mann making a margarita at Novikov.

Visits to Café Pacifico and Los Mochis would support this, but then, of course, agave is their thing! But I’ve seen friends and family who have not touched tequila in years suddenly enjoying a Mezcal Margarita; where did that come from? Well, good ingredients, drinks done well, in a great environment, create a great experience and open the door for more experimentation. People want to try something different and increasingly look for less-sugary drinks, too.

But Tequila and Mezcal don’t always have to be enjoyed as a Marg...

Paloma

Disrepute’s Lorenzo mentioned that the Margarita is not going anywhere for the foreseeable future, but the appeal of the Paloma has changed perceptions further. The addition of good quality grapefruit soda and lime juice to tequila, mezcal, or both together is a simple, oh so tasty alternative to a Spritz, and just as quick to mix up too!

Mayfair’s Novikov has witnessed this growth in agave-based drinks, with many a Margarita, but their Paloma is their top seller, based on a homemade grapefruit cordial, and that mix of mezcal & tequila I mentioned. They also sell Hugo Spritz aplenty, but according to Lounge Operations Manager Gianfranco Iozzi… 

Image: (Left) Lorenzo Gavelli making a spritz and (Right) Novikov Paloma.

“Londoners are definitely over super sweet drinks. We’re seeing a big shift toward drier, more botanical flavours and better quality products as well as ingredients. More and more people are drinking real drinks and not just the Pornstar Martini. Looking ahead, we’re also seeing more people going for savoury, bitter spritzes using things like white port or dry vermouth with tonic and fresh herbs like rosemary. Tea-infused highballs are starting to pick up a bit of momentum too, especially later in the evening.” 

Remember, a Paloma is basically a highball-style drink (as is a rum and coke or G&T!), so as a category it gets lots of consumption, but Paloma does sound more sophisticated!

Talking to Trailer Happiness’s Sly, he also suggested: “the next drink disruptor could be rum highballs, especially for appreciating the refined flavours of Agricole-style rum made from sugar cane juice”.

Martini & the Classics

Leicester Square’s Hippodrome is home to another bartending baller, Jack Sotti, who brings the fun in glass at Archive & Myth. He balances minimalism and pre-crafted ingredients with a sense of experience for the guest. Jack sees “Martinis continue to climb to the mainstream, and pickles are everything” as his one-man mission to serve one to every Londoner, which certainly helps! 

Image: Jack Sotti Archive and Myth Venetian.

Lewis Hayes, owner of Merchant House, Black Parrot, and DropWorks Rum Distillery, echoes the renaissance of the classics. "With Black Parrot being one of the world’s best-stocked rum bars, it means that the classics (and riffs on the classics) are more than bestsellers; they’re an excellent way for guests to explore the category in a way that suits how they like to drink”.

“The Martini and whisky Old Fashioned remain quiet powerhouses, cutting through just as strongly in summer as in winter; they speak to guests who care about quality, precision and a properly made, spirit-forward drink, rather than something overly long or sugary”.

Lewis did say that customers do like familiarity even when being experimental on a drink like riffs on the well-known rum & ginger, but mentioned one of their bestsellers is a riff on an 80s classic, the Midori Sour built on rum – one I must try when I continue my research on this topic! He did mention Charlie Chaplin's and Ti’ Punch are big haves this season too.  

Image: Lewis hosting in Black Parrot.

I’ve hardly mentioned the S word. When quizzed, Lewis admitted that the Hugo is having a moment, and they will twist it up with house mint cordial for a touch of flavour refinement.

Modern-day classics  

Here it’s good to look at the larger hospitality groups. The Pornstar is still a popular big sharer at Be At One, and so many still love an Espresso Martini.

I managed to catch up with Antonio Cozzolino, Operations Manager of Nightcap, who has a cross-section of offerings across the capital, including The Cocktail Club, Hidden Society, Disrepute and more, including Dirty Martini. 

Image: Antonio Cozzolino.

They still see Aperol Spritz as a high-selling, iconic serve but are experiencing a shift across their group. Antonio’s view on their high-volume venues suggests “guests continue to gravitate towards familiar, trusted cocktails. While consumers are becoming increasingly adventurous, they still tend to choose recognisable flavour profiles or classic cocktails with a modern twist. Margaritas, Picantes, Porn Star Martinis and Espresso Martinis remain among our strongest sellers in all their variations”. 

Image: (L-R) Dirty Martini Porn Star and Midori Sour.

But they are seeing a shift to lower ABV serves; Hugos have been a standout success this season as consumers seek lighter, floral or herbal alternatives to Aperol Spritz, and they’ve also experienced the pulling power of a Paloma. 

Craft Cocktails: Minimalism v Maximalism

This is a whole article in itself, it seems, based on the various discussions and feedback from all those who kindly contributed to this piece. In short, there’s something for everyone in London!

Black Parrot prefers minimalism, Lewis Hayes explained: “There’s definitely a place for maximalism, but our focus is always on clarity of flavour and showcasing the liquid at its best”. Essentially, drinks like Martini, Margarita, Paloma, Highballs, Negronis, and Spritzes are that “less is more” simpler serve, so that the spirit can do the talking,  

Nightcaps’ craft cocktail venues like Disrepute & Hidden Society see a mix, based on different types of guests, to their high-volume venues. Antonio explains, “Visitors to these venues are often looking for a more curated drinking experience and are increasingly open to exploring unique flavour combinations, storytelling and cocktails that feel bespoke rather than trend-driven". Yet their Classics remain incredibly important as they outweigh their experimental creations. 

Jack Sotti swings the other way on the trend spectrum: “A return to maximalism away from clarified everything; texture is now a big decoder!” Maximalism is that more is more approach: foams, contrasting flavour infusions, wacky glassware, smoke, wild garnishes.

Image: Jack Sotti and Harp Mann.

I quizzed more on that point regarding the guest experience (by the way, you can order smaller “minor” versions of his cocktails to experience more of them!). “Yeah, I love batching and kind of need it for the drinks I want to make, but I always find an element to do in front of the guest”.

And that’s the thing about cocktails and drinking out; it’s so much about the experience. Why do we spend big money on a cocktail on a day/night out? What’s your favourite cocktail? Questions  I get asked a lot! 

As Antonio adds, “Great hospitality and consistency will always outweigh novelty alone.”

So what cocktails are dominating London this Summer?

This quick cocktail cruise across London (I could have mentioned many more bars!) shows there is something to suit everyone. From dive bars, tiki bars, speakeasies, rooftop bars, high-end & hotel bars, we’re so lucky that there’s a drink and experience for everyone. 

The time of day influences choices; heck, most bartenders I’ve seen prefer a Guinness with a spirit chaser after shift or in their downtime! 

Earlier in the day, longer, lower-ABV serves ruled; Aperol Spritz took over from G&T as the drink of choice, and as the king of cocktail castle, there’s always new suitors to the title. Hugo is the challenger this summer, but more will follow as drink brands (amaro, liqueurs, botanical aperitifs) seek to bolster sales. 

Tasting Aperol, a more bitter drink, has led to taste buds evolving from sweet to bitter, sour, etc, where the general consumer is looking to try more and be experimental. With a margarita, you can experience sweet, sour, spicy, and a salty rim all in one drink! Now, with decent tequila in it, they are getting wowed and feel safe to try a Paloma and get more exotic with a Mezcal in it and not go back! 

Highballs are aplenty again, where the spirit is the talking point and allows choice. These drinks are akin to the day-night dress you can transition the evening easily with these in hand!

If you’re out for the evening, you can be more fanciful with your cocktail, enjoy classics, or have one twisted; there are more taste sensations to enjoy. Remember, a Dirty Martini has savoury, briny notes; try one with truffle for umami!

Image: Enjoying drinks at Black Parrot.

This is a journey I’d happily keep exploring, and we still have the rest of summer to do so. A simple question could easily have ended in summer = spritz, but delving further, like our food preferences a few years back, shows we want much more from our drinks in London! 

For me, it also depends on the timing, the venue, the company, and the experience you seek; there is an option for everyone. Classics, twists, minimal, maximal, lab-batched, low ABV, spirit-forward; it’s not just the spritz; it’s the summer of savouring the moment!

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