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Interviews

Agave for the Win

With an ardor for all spirits agave, Horace Buckenham created his award-winning mezcal cocktail Mayahuel’s Gift. Step into the Bank in Bristol to get a taste of his passion.

Where do you work?

Bank Bristol.

Tell us something about yourself

I started my journey into bartending and spirits on a Mechanical Engineering Degree in Brighton. I also hold an NVQ qualification in welding, I'm sure that will come in useful someday.

What inspired you to get into bartending?

I took a job at Hotel du Vin in Brighton to fund University but absolutely fell in love with wine and spirits. The production processes, the cultural significance, the brand stories all grabbed me from the word go. I wanted to know it all, needed to know it all. This pursuit of knowledge ultimately led me to ditch uni and pursue bartending full time.

Cocktails by Horace Buckenham

How according to you has the role of the Bartender evolved, especially now during Covid times?

The role of the bartender is no longer defined by just the person standing behind the bar. All parts of the bar require you to be aware and somewhat trained as a bartender. Taking orders at tables and running drinks you need to be aware of the flavour profile, how it is made, and be able to give recommendations. The floor and bar are no longer separate entities. Partly spurred on by the necessity of table service during the reopening process.

What are some of the most important skills for a bartender to have?

Most techniques and physical skills for a bartender can be taught, what is really important is the bartender's mindset and outlook. You want someone who is comfortable socially, eager to learn and level headed. If a bartender can stay calm under pressure, smile and take on board instructions they can learn any of the other skills required to be good at the role.

What do you look for when you plan to buy spirits for your bar?

Firstly it is seasonality. Colder months will probably necessitate looking for more darker spirits on the back bar whilst more lighter spirits in the warmer ones. Once I know what style I'm looking for it is quality but not at the expense of value. It is very easy to get carried away and only want the very best spirits for your bar. This can prove very expensive not only to yourself but in turn your customers. Pricing your clientele out of drinking in your bar is not the game. To find that sweet spot of incredible liquid with a price point you can make work is a constant battle, but in the end if we get it right both us and the customers win.

What support programs work best for you from suppliers?

Retros and cash are great but the best form of support is training and transparency. If you can spare some time to come down and chat with us about your spirit, hold a tasting with us, get us excited about it. We will reciprocate by wanting to put it in cocktails, upsell it to customers. We want communication and to develop relationships with our suppliers.

Horace Buckenham

What cocktails and drinks trends do you see in 2022?

Personally, I'd love to see agave spirits keep on soaring. Maybe to see the other liquids in the form of Stool, Bacanora and Raicilla get a bit more time in the limelight. We are seeing our clientele being more adventurous in their drinking. So maybe more of a swing towards other lesser known spirits, Pisco, Cachaca, Baijiu etc.

Mayahuel’s Gift has been crowned Britain’s Best Mezcal Cocktail in the competition run by Hacha in London. Made by Horace Buckenham.

What's the best part of your job?

The creativity. I love nothing more than to put together cocktails and menus.

What are your favorite TV shows right now? Or your favorite movie?

Currently I'm re-watching the Walking Dead. Otherwise Marvel films are my absolute go to.

If you had to pick one spirit as your personal best, which would it be and why?

Mezcal, hands down. The complexity, the links it has back to Mexican culture and heritage, I find absolutely everything about the spirit magical.

How are you marketing your bar to drive some foot traffic during covid-19?

We are so new to Bristol, only been open for 4 months, so we're trying everything once. We have the most success through Instagram.

Any tips for new bartenders?

Don't say no to any new opportunities to learn. Tastings, courses, distillery visits, development sessions. Go to them all. 

What’s the most underrated cocktail ingredient or spirit?

Absinthe. I feel people are scared of it. But used correctly a few drops can elevate a cocktail to new heights.

What is an experience or a customer story you thought was funny and that you remember?

I had Tom Odell behind the bar with me polishing glasses at Hotel du Vin. He had a few post gig and felt sorry for us having to clean up after him.

What are the 4-5 challenges you face in your business and how do you overcome them?

Changing opinions - as I mentioned above we are new to Bristol. The place before us was a very different style which some people still expect. We try to make sure our drinks list has something for everyone. Reservations - We only reserve 1/3 of our tables, a decision made to keep a community feel to the venue, post-COVID many people expect they need to book, reiterating this to every person through the door is vital.

Waste - Cocktail bars produce waste, the key is to keep it down to a minimum. We make cordials and ferments out of fruits you'd otherwise throw away. For example our lemon and lime husk cordial. Staffing - everyone knows how hard it is to find bartenders, chefs, floor staff these days. We set a standard of what style of person we want in our team, mainly hospitality professionals. We stuck to our guns endured some long weeks but now we have everyone we want and our team is so much stronger because of it.

What's your career goal? Where do you want to be and how are you working towards it?

I want to be working with agave spirits. Whether that is owning/operating an agave bar or working as an ambassador for an agave brand. Now I'm just increasing my knowledge as much as I can. All my reading, competitions and personal development is geared towards agave.

Tips for brands looking to pitch to bars? What should they cover in their pitch? What you do not need to know? Give us the best elevator pitch brands can make to you.

I don't need an elevator pitch. Turn up on time, bring some great liquids and be a person and a brand I want to work with and you're more likely to succeed.

Define a good Bartender according to you.

Effortless multi-tasking, unflappability, delicious and beautifully presented drinks, and just personable.

What's an ideal bar drinks menu? What should it include, what profit metric should it try and achieve?

Seasonal, making use of flavours and produce available at that time of year. I don't want to see mint in December. A wide range of spirits, unless you're a bar that focuses on a particular kind of spirit, contains the obvious suspects but a couple of left-field choices to show you've given this menu a bit of thought. Creative flavour pairings. Don't necessarily have to break the wheel but something that piques my interest.

For profit margins, as long as it is between 70 & 75% GP all is good but it doesn't have to be set in stone. The greatest tragedy is an absolutely incredible drink not seeing the light of day because it only makes 69% GP.

Call for domestic and international submission is now open for London Spirits Competition. Enter your spirits and give your brand a global boost. Register now.

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