Japan

Japan now has some of the best whiskies available on the world market today, backed by a proud tradition of whisky distillation that extends all the way back to the 1870’s. Most notably, the method of Japanese whisky production is almost exactly the same as Scottish whisky production, which allows whisky connoisseurs from around the world to compare Scotch with Japanese whisky head-to-head. Japanese whiskies have received the highest marks from Jim Murray’s Whiskey Bible, and continue to win prizes in international competitions.

History

The birth of the Japanese whisky industry is generally considered to be in the year 1870. However, the first commercial distillery – Yamazaki Distillery – was not officially established until 1923. Thus, for a period of about 50 years, an informal (and some might say “illicit”) system of whisky production existed in Japan. There are two individuals inextricably linked to the start of commercial Japanese whisky production and the rise to fame of Japanese whisky as an art form – Shinjiro Torii and Masataka Taketsuru, who is often referred to as “the father of Japanese whisky.”

Taketsuru was a pharmacist by trade who studied whisky distillation methods in Scotland before bringing those same techniques and approaches to Japan. He played a major role in the opening of the Yamazaki Distillery, and also is credited with the establishment of the Yoichi Distillery and the Miyagikyo Distillery. It is impossible to read any account of the history of Japanese whisky without encountering the name Taketsuru.

Until recently, it was relatively difficult to find Japanese whisky in Western markets. In part, that was due to structural changes that took place in the Japanese whisky industry after the end of World War II. Three famous distilleries – Hanyu (founded in 1941), Karuizawa, and Monde Shuzo (founded in 1952) went out of business, and Japan struggled with its post-war recovery. The Japanese economic resurgence of the 1980’s, though, helped to create the basis for a stronger whisky industry. In recent years, Japanese whiskies have received critical acclaim in international competitions and have even been featured in a Hollywood film (“Lost in Translation” with Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson).

Style

Japanese whisky is remarkably similar to Scotch whisky from Speyside or the Highlands. In fact, Japan even spells “whisky” the same way they do in Scotland (and not as “whiskey,” as they do in the United States and Ireland). In some cases, the choice of geographic locations for Japanese distilleries was specifically chosen to replicate, as best as possible, the specific terroir of Scotland.

Generally speaking, Japanese whisky is lighter and sweeter than other whisky. And it is not at all smoky or peaty, as you might expect from a “peat monster” from Islay. Often, Japanese whiskies are referred to as having aromas of honey and roses (as is the case with Yamazaki 12-Year-Old Whisky) or rich, sweet finishes (as is the case with Kakubin, the best-selling whisky in Japan).

Japanese distilleries produce both blended and single malt whiskies. The single malt whiskies are made using yeast, malted barley and water (just as in Scotland), and then aged in oak casks for a minimum of three years. The specific type of wood aging can vary by distillery, and the choice of which wood to use can have a very pronounced effect on the style and flavor of the whisky.

Famous Japanese whiskies include Hibiki 17-Year-Old Whisky (a blend of single malt and grain whiskies), Yamazaki 12-Year-Old-Whisky, Hakushu 12-Year-Old Whisky, Kakubin (also a blended whisky), Nikka Whisky From the Barrel, and Nikka 12-Year-Old Taketsuru Japanese Whisky.

Kakubin (a name that translates as “Square Bottle”) is particularly noteworthy because it is now the No. 1 whisky in Japan. It has a rich sweetness, a long-lasting finish, and aromas that are reminiscent of custard cream. Kakubin is produced from blended malts from both the Yamazaki and Hakushu distilleries, and has been produced, in one form or another, since 1937.

Key Japanese whisky regions

Sapporo – Located in the very north of Japan, Sapporo is part of a mountainous region that lends itself to robust, peaty whiskies. These whiskies are created using powdered coal direct-fired stills. The most famous whisky distillery in Sapporo is Yoichi (owned by Nikka Whisky), which was founded in 1934 by Masataka Taketsuru.  Yoichi is located in western Sapporo, at the same latitude as New York City and Toronto.

Sendai (Miyagi Prefecture) – In terms of geography and topography, this Japanese region (Honshu island) is almost exactly similar to what you might expect from Scottish terroir in the Highlands. It is a wooded area with clear water, and the most famous distillery here is Miyagikyo (owned by Nikka Whisky), founded in 1969. Miyagikyo is Nikka’s second distillery, having been founded 35 years after the establishment of Yoichi. And, just like with Yoichi, the founder was Masataka Taketsuru.

Tokyo/Chichibu – One of the most famous distilleries located relatively close to the capital city of Tokyo is Chichibu Distillery, founded in 2004. This distillery, located just 100 kilometers northwest of Tokyo and 30 minutes from the center of Chichibu City, went fully operational in 2008. This region experiences extreme temperatures: summers can be very hot and humid, while winters can experience temperatures as low as -10 Celsius.

Osaka/Kyoto – This southernmost region of Japan boasts one of the most famous distilleries in the country – Yamazaki. This was the first commercial distillery in the nation, founded back in 1923. It is now part of the giant conglomerate Suntory. Yamazaki is located at the foot of Mt. Tennozan, and the area is warm and humid, with dense mists often swirling around the mountain. Another distillery in this region is Eigashima Shuzo, which got its start producing sake and shochu. It is located near Kobe, west of Osaka.

Yamanshi Prefecture – This region is the home of Suntory’s second distillery, Hakushu, which was founded in 1973. It is located on the slopes of Mt. Kaikoma.

Kyushu Island – Located off the coast of Japan, this island is the home of Kikori Distillery, founded in 2015. One unique aspect of this distillery is that it only uses 100% local rice from Japanese farmers. After distillation, all spirits are aged in American oak.